LAMP POSITIONERS
COMPARISONS OF LEVELERS
Lynn Perry: Use a panavise (or any type of device that allows rotation
and elevation changes of the lampshade) when you solder. The positioner
needs to be attached to a board that is clamped or screwed to the worktable.
This extends the shade from the edge of the table and allows complete
freedom to position the lamp without being blocked by the table. The small
Panavise positioner sold by glass suppliers is suitable for lampshades
as large as 20” in diameter. A stronger Panavise, “The Rock”,
will handle larger shades and can be ordered from Wood Carvers Supply,
Inc.
Chaz Smith: I use a basic positioner to solder both the inside and outside
of my lamps. The tip of the positioner, where it attaches to the lamp,
is a threaded rod. First, I rough solder the lamp while it’s on
the mold. I then remove the lamp and add reinforcment wires to the top
ring. Then I use a wheel and a piece of masonite to hold the shade to
the positioner. To solder the outside, I put the wheel on first, then
the shade, then the masonite disk which is just larger than the ring.
I tighten this on with a wingnut and washers. To solder the inside, I
first put on the masonite, then the shade, then the wheel, and fasten
with wingnut and washers. So for soldering the outside, the shade is like
an umbrella over the positioner, and for soldering the inside, the shade
is like the top of a wine glass, cupping away from the positioner. The
wheel is slightly thicker than the ring, so this allows the shade to rotate
freely.
Scott Riggs: I bought a used pull-type golf cart for $35 - just so I could
use the handle. After cutting off the handle, I attached a threaded rod
to the golf cart handle using liquid weld and attached it to my workbench.
The handle is adjustable, so it keeps the lamp level at any angle. (When
I need to use the jig, I’ve already installed the ring in the 33
lamp, so I can easily solder the inside of the lamp with this jig by securing
the ring between two wheels on the threaded rod.
Peter Grotepass: There is no need to use a lamp positioner with the following
technique that I’ve developed.
• After the glass pieces have been waxed securely to the mold, center
the mold under an overhang of sorts. Examples: use a basement ceiling
beam or use a stable anchor to hold a hook in a finished ceiling.
• Attach a rope, wire or chain from that point and find the center
of the mold.
• Pull the rope through the center and let the lamp hang free from
the hook.
• Place a chair directly below the lamp.
• Sit in the chair and place your knees inside the mold. Use your
knees to hold the lamp steady or to rotate the lamp while you solder.
This way, you can use both hands for soldering and, as you work, you can
keep the area you are working on in a horizontal position.
Sandy Stringfellow: My lamp-leveling device, Worden Lamp Leveler, sits
on a 2 inch pipe that is bolted to a piece of plywood.
Bob Plagmann: I’m using the Worden Flexible Head Adapter mounted
on a photo tripod as my lamp position. For small lamps this worked well,
but it tipped over while I was working on a large lamp. I solved the problem
by taping 5 lb. dumbbells to the bottom of each leg. Now it works like
a charm!